I got a place to sleep. Anytime, the people helps me. Anytime, I thank for it.I got a surfboard. I wanna into the MEXICAN PIPELINE someday. practice practice practice. I need a strong body what can work with the nature.

I was sleeping on the beach last night with the wind and sounds from the ocean. I love to sleep outside always. But in this morning, when I wake up and back to the hut..... NO BAGS ON THE BED!!!!!! Someone took away from me. So I don't hav…

港の中から波の打ち寄せる浜辺へ移動。 Acapulcoからバスに揺られて7時間。 Puerto Escondido、Mexican Pipelineと呼ばれるでかい波のたつPlaya Zicatela。 インディオのおじさんが住んでいる、閉店中のバーの小屋に泊めてもらえることになる。 毎晩、雨漏り…